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BERN
Bern is situated near the Swiss Alps. One is always aware that the mountains are not far distant when in Bern. As a result, Bern has a quite quality that makes this city very pleasant. The swift moving Aare River flowing around three sides of Bern further reminds that the high Alps are not far distant.
Switzerland is a small country comprised of 25 cantons. Since the Sonderbund War of 1847, Switzerland has been a unified country with Bern as the capital. The Swiss speak three languages: German, French, and Italian. Swiss cantons are either predominantly Protestant or Catholic. Bern is situated in a German speaking, Protestant canton.
Bern is a good city for window shopping. This town's store windows are as captivating as anywhere in Europe. The streets of Bern have covered walkways that invite leisurely browsing. Buying Swiss goods, usually, adds to making a visit to Bern a success. Bern gives one a good feel for Switzerland's past. The city's downtown is situated within a bend of the Aare River exactly as the city was centuries ago. Some of the Bern city wall from 1346 can still be seen. Bern is a medieval city that seldom disappoints.
Bern, A Quite City by Foot
The most convenient way to get around downtown Bern is on foot. Distances from place to place in this city are short. Bern is not an unusually busy city, and walking from place to place on foot is pleasant. Bern's extraordinary qualities make exploring the city on foot appealing.
Like the rest of Switzerland, Bern has an attractive orderliness. Small shops line the streets selling goods of all kinds. Nice little restaurants can similarly be found with ease. Streets are connected with passages lined with a multitude of vendors selling a remarkable variety of goods. In Bern, buildings are built out over the sidewalk making the city convenient in inclement weather.
Bern is a definite contrast to some of the busier cities of Europe. Fountains that once provided the municipal water supply are still found every block or so in the main streets. Pedestrian streets in Bern's downtown have given over complete use of several streets to foot traffic. Side streets can seem far removed from the bustle of the city.
Bern is remarkably well connected with the rest of Switzerland by an excellent, modern railroad system. From the Bern Hauptbahnhof, one can reach Zurich, Geneva, or the other Swiss cities within about two hours. The interconnectedness of Swiss cities adds a modern quality to Bern that is thoroughly pleasing. The Bern Hauptbahnhof can be thought of as, virtually, the center of Switzerland. All year round, trains from the Hauptbahnhof find their way throughout the various cantons of Switzerland.
Finding Bern with an Urban Hike
The Hauptbahnhof is where this urban hike begins. Bern's train station is, itself, interesting with shopping on three levels. From the train station, walk under the street to the east and up the escalators to Neuengasse. Follow this pedestrian street for about five blocks to Waisenhaus Platz. The Prison Tower is directly across Waisenhaus Platz. From 1250 and 1350, the Prison Tower was Bern's western gate. The Swiss parliament visible from Waisenhaus Platz. An open air market is located between this platz and the Swiss capital building in the summer. Walk toward the parliament, continue on through Baren Platz, and on to the capitol building.
The Federal Place, or Bundeshaus, is where the Swiss Council of States and National Council meet. There is a tour of this building that introduces Swiss democracy. The terrace behind the building provides an excellent view of the Bernese Alps.
After visiting the Bundeshaus, return to Baren Platz. From Baren Platz, turn right and follow Marketgasse. Explore the side streets on both sides of Marketgasse. There is a splendid selection of goods obtainable from the vendors in this area of Bern.
The Clock Tower is several blocks along Marketgasse. The Clock Tower's location is where Bern's western gate was until 1250. The Clock Tower has an impressive clock with performing figures that make an appearance on the hour. The many moving figures that appear whenever the clock strikes have been performing since the 16th century.
Pass under the Clock Tower and continue on down Kramgasse. Browse the shop windows of the many small store found on both sides of Kramgasse. Kramgasse becomes Gerechtigkeitsgasse and eventually leads to the Nydegg Bridge over the Aare River.
Bern's Bear Pit is located immediately across the Nydegg Bridge. Bears have been a popular attraction in Bern since the end of the 15th century. The bear is the symbol of Bern and is found on the canton's flag. Bern now has two bear pits to amuse visitors.
After visiting the Bear Pit, return across the Aare River and walk toward the center of Bern. At Postgasshalde, turn left and continue to Postgasse. The Rathaus, where the Bern Municipal Council and the Grand Council of the canton meet, is several blocks along Postgasse. The Rathaus is recognized by its covered porch and double stair case. The Bern Rathaus was completed between 1406 and 1417.
Postgasse becomes Rathausgasse and then Zeghausgasse as the street continues west in the direction of the train station. Before reaching the pedestrian streets where the urban hike began, turn left.
Walk through Waisenhaus Platz and then follow Hodler Strasse for about a block and half to the Kunstmuseum.
The Kunstmuseum is a fine arts museum famous for a large collection of paintings by Paul Klee who was a native of Bern. Swiss primitives from the 15th and 16th century are also found here. The impressionist represented in the Kunstmuseum include Monet and Cezanne. Rouault, Matisse, and Rousseau are among the expressionists exhibited here. The museum, also, exhibits Delacroix from the French school.
From the Kunstmuseum, return through Waisenhaus Platz to the Clock Tower. Turn left on Marketgasse. Catch a number 3 or 5 bus from Marketgasse. Take this bus across the Aare River and get off at the first platz, Helvetia Platz.
On the west side of Helvetia Platz is the Swiss Alpine Museum. The Alpine Museum presents history of the exploration and conquest of the Swiss Alps. Mountaineering equipment is on display here. Relief maps of the Alps and models of mountain huts are included in the Alpine Museum's exhibits.
The Swiss Postal Museum is found in the same building as the Alpine Museum. This museum features exhibits about the Swiss postal service from ancient times to present. A large stamp collection is included in the postal museum's collections.
From the postal museum, follow Aegertenstrasse south. The Swiss Historical Museum is about a one block walk. Several impressive tapestries and interesting displays of furniture are to be found in the Historical Museum. Next door is the Natural History Museum. Local vertebrates, African animals, and Arctic animals are featured in the Natural History Museum's collection.
The Natural History Museum concludes the urban hike of Bern. This urban hike has presented Bern's important sights. Returning to those places that most interest has been facilitated by this urban hike. A thorough familiarity with the Bern urban environment has been begun with this urban hike.
Getting the Most from Visiting a Medieval City
Bern is an unusual city that can provide the visitor a real sense of its own earlier years. Bern is properly called a medieval city situated exactly as during medieval times within a bend of the Aare River. Give some thought to Bern's past before beginning this urban hike. Try reading something about Bern's history. Certainly, try to imagine what Bern was like in earlier centuries.
Buying Swiss is another good idea for improving a visit to Bern. Take advantage of the numberless shops in Bern to obtain the Swiss goods preferred. Practical wares can, also, be obtained from Bern's large department stores. Opportune shopping is everywhere in Bern.
Photographing can improve a visit to Bern. The city itself is medieval and unique. Reminders of the past are everywhere. Bern's scenery reflects an unusual calm that must result from the proximity of the Alps. The swift moving Aare River further improves the urban scenery.
This urban hike, in contrast to some of the other hikes this book suggests, is essentially a day of leisure. The walking distances required in Bern are not as great as in the other cities. Plan a relaxed day to explore Bern. Take time, browse in store windows, and visit favorite places. This urban hike provides a pleasing first impression of an unusual city.
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